• MM6 Maison Margiela Plies Backwards, Reversible Garments for Fall 2021 – WWD

    You can make an entrance and an exit declaring the same fashion statement with this MM6 Maison Margiela collection, which often exalts the back of garments by duplicating them in the front. A cape-backed and cape-fronted trench coat, get it? Naturally the show video – charming with its Parisian cabaret setting, circa the 1920s – started with the finale, the silver confetti rising to the ceiling.

    The look: Conceptual chic, with dashes of glamour and grit. Looks ranged from soigné blouses in fuchsia satin with narrow skirts to tattered cable-knit sweaters and inside-out biker jackets. Invisible side zippers allow the wearer to enter a pinstriped jacket with two backs, and jeans with back pockets on both sides.

    Quote of note: “Revolved inside out, upside down and back-to-front, traditional pieces reveal new design dimensions for a reborn wardrobe inspired by these topsy-turvy times,” the press notes said. (MM6 is credited to a design collective.)

    Standout pieces: A brilliant collaboration with Eastpak sees backpacks sprouting straps from both sides, and even fanny packs come fully reversible: The white membrane inside will crackle over time like the white paint synonymous with the Paris house. In clothing, you’ve got to love the long shearling in the shape of a lab coat, and white jeans with rips on the back of the knees. Ha-ha!

    Takeaway: This label skews closely to the original spirit of the Belgian founder, and has found a compelling groove with an added couture touch. The garments are loaded with personality, distinctive details and subtle humor.

  • Gabriele Colangelo RTW Fall 2021 – WWD

    On his birthday, Gabriele Colangelo opened his Milan headquarters for private appointments. Getting a closer look at his chic, crafty fall collection – and all the intricate techniques he deployed to elevate his lean silhouettes – did even more justice to his work than the emotional video starring Malgosia Bela. This season, Colangelo twisted and thermally fixed fabrics for textured surfaces evoking natural elements on the minimal range.

    The look: Polished tailoring with a twist – literally. Twists, braids, long tassels and geometric cutouts are part of Colangelo’s vocabulary and these added dynamism to precise shapes. Soutache-embroidered embellishments and vibrant shades of blue and apricot made his aesthetic resonate louder.

    Quote of note: “In twisting fabrics, I was inspired by the work of Jorge Eielson, a contemporary artist who created similar movements on canvas, making flat surfaces three-dimensional,” said Colangelo.

    Standout pieces: A camel double cashmere and wool coat embellished with a soutache-embroidered, scalloped panel. The same motif was introduced in cut-out shirts, straight pants and pleated dresses. In addition, a lavender pleated silk blouse and matching skirt that had a sculptural flavor; a cobalt blue, double wool jacket with vertical bands in crushed velvet; and a pleated devoré satin slip dress with ombré overprinted motifs.

    The takeaway: Reflecting his discreet and gentle manners, Colangelo’s fashion aren’t flashy, but command attention for quality, craftsmanship and interesting experimentations that never compromise wearability.

  • Salvatore Ferragamo Embraces a Younger Spirit for Fall 2021 – WWD

    In recent years, Salvatore Ferragamo has become synonymous with elegant yet conservative collections, often with a bourgeois spirit.

    However, that type of attitude doesn’t really reflect the vision of Salvatore Ferragamo himself. The founder was a visionary from a humble background who plied a forward-thinking, revolutionary and highly creative approach to fashion.

    For fall, creative director Paul Andrew got into that experimental mindset, presenting a young and imaginative collection.

    “We pushed boundaries forward in a big way,” the designer said during a preview. He referred not only to the big production behind the digital showcase, which combined virtual realty techniques and physical filming, but also to the lineup itself.

    In keeping with the brand’s core business, leather played a major role, but Andrew used it in a range of fluorescent and bold colors, including green and orange, which gave shorts suits and unfussy coats an eye-catching, irreverent look.

    The video depicted models striding through a futuristic New York City before entering a tunnel that transported them into the present: in this case, the show space of Milan’s Rotonda della Besana venue. Military references and sporty accents combined in the futuristic lineup, bringing to mind movies such as “Matrix” and “Gattaca.” But it felt positive and optimistic.

    Capes, pants and jackets in bright, biodegradable PVC were paired with technical tops and bodysuits with graphic intarsias, while knitted catsuits and dresses, featuring see-through effects, offered a new take on camouflage.

    The high-tech, sci-fi vibe was warmed up by fluid draped dresses, soft tailoring and the artisanal knitted sets and dresses with cascading fringes. 

    Leather goods included young and fun mini top-handle bags and soft hobos in candy colors, while shoes spanned from Space Age biker boots and scuba sneakers to more feminine styles with the brand’ archival F heel sparkling with rhinestones.

    With this collection, Andrew projected the Salvatore Ferragamo brand in a more fashionable and younger dimension, reacquainting the Florentine fashion house with its original spirit. 

  • Laura Biagiotti RTW Fall 2021 – WWD

    Lavinia Biagiotti chose another landmark location in Rome to stage Laura Biagiotti’s fall collection: the Ara Pacis, a symbol of peace and prosperity, and where the company in 2009 presented an exhibition of Giacomo Balla artworks belonging to the Biagiotti family’s collection. Partnering once again with Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera, the designer asked ballet dancer and director of the theater Eleonora Abbagnato to perform with a group of six dancers wearing gowns in pastel colors as modern day Vestals.

    The look: Wearable, comfortable everyday looks, and there’s often a dreamy element throughout Lavinia Biagiotti’s designs.

    Quote of note: “The Ara Pacis is strongly evocative and is a symbol of the beginning of a new era of prosperity,” said Biagiotti. “I called the collection ‘Age of Women,’ suggesting the start of a golden age and for women in particular, expressing themselves in the best possible way, whatever their role, in a new balance. I was always fascinated by this storied monument in a contemporary display, with a perspective that looks into the infinite.”

    Standout pieces: Lavinia Biagiotti’s mother, Laura, was known as the “Queen of Cashmere” and the company’s expertise with this precious fabric stood out throughout the video presentation, as models paraded long and fluid dresses and cardigans in cashmere, in some cases with braids or embellished with a cascade of pearls and sequins. Belted coats begged to be touched, looking cozy yet luxurious as were the alpaca capes. The color palette was inspired by the floral friezes on the monument- marble white, which is also a signature color for the brand; the lotus flower, also a symbol of rebirth; the pink shades of the acanthus or iris purple – as seen in a demure blazer without lapels, vest and soft carrot pants. The new bridal collection was beautiful, with a stunning and precious lace gown, for example.

    Takeaway: The dancing helped convey the softness and fluidity of the lineup. The storied landmark was also chosen by the designer to telegraph durability –  and there’s no expiration date on cashmere coats and dresses.

     

  • Onitsuka Tiger RTW Fall 2021 – WWD

    Fresh off the opening of a new flagship store in Milan, Onitsuka Tiger decamped to the city’s digital fashion week. Building a bridge between the Italian city and Tokyo, where the brand is based, creative director Andrea Pompilio conscripted three Milan-based creatives to star in it, doing dance and art performances. They included Myss Keta, a local rap diva, performance artist and LGBTQ icon who rose to fame for her provocative lyrics and daring looks, always accessorized with black sunglasses and face masks, even pre-pandemic.

    The look: Activewear-influenced attire referencing ‘70s trekking uniforms alongside coats and suits in a technical fabrics that had a minimal, ninja-style edge.

    Quote of note: “Over the past eight years, I’ve tried to add a fashionable bent to this heritage sportswear brand,” said Pompilio. “These are not intended as commercial pieces, but rather as fashion options for everyday use.”

    Standout pieces: Pinstriped pantsuits in a technical jersey fabric that had a gangster-cool flavor; an all-black minimal look featuring a padded duster coat, short pants, shirt and tuxedo belt; floral printed puffer jackets with matching shorts accessorized with a fake fur trapper hat; plenty of polo-shirt dresses in neon hues.

    Takeaway: While many looks were a redux of successful Onitsuka Tiger commercial pieces, Pompilio managed to throw some cool and edgy outfits into the mix.

  • Salvatore Ferragamo Blends Physical and Virtual for Fall 2021 – WWD

    HAPPY FUTURE: After developing a video set in Milan and filmed by Luca Guadagnino to present its spring 2021 collection, Salvatore Ferragamo imagined a city of the future for its fall 2021 digital showcase, to be unveiled today at 2 p.m. CET.

    Actually, the brand, for the “Future Positive” event, combined virtual reality and the physical experience of today’s real world for a ground-breaking project creating a conjunction between present and future.

    “I’m very passionate about sci-fi movies, I grew up with pre-Millennium films like ‘Star Wars,’ ‘Matrix’ and ‘Gattaca,’ that we subtly referenced,” said Salvatore Ferragamo creative director Paul Andrew, explaining the concept behind the presentation on the set of the video a few days ahead of the official unveiling.

    The set of the Salvatore Ferragamo Fall 2021 digital showcase

    The set of the Salvatore Ferragamo fall 2021 digital showcase. 
    Courtesy of Salvatore Ferragamo

    Suggesting an optimistic idea of a positive change ahead of us, Andrew designed a New York of the future with new buildings meeting the already existing ones, space ships, as well as a clear sky and chirping birds. If the city is rendered in virtual reality, the models populating it are real and, through the portal of a building designed in the shape of the brand’s Gancini logo, they enter a tunnel. Like in the “Gattaca” movie, this acts like a portal that brings the models back to the present, in Milan’s Rotonda della Besana location.

    Here, they walk the circular space, covered in a black fabric and featuring at its center a sculptural transparent pyramid, which, hit by the rays of light, as in a prism, projects a rainbow.

    “The rainbow is a positive symbol of many things, such as joy, inclusivity, diversity,” Andrew said. “In these unsettling times, we really wanted to push the boundaries, envisioning a future full of hope.”

    See also: 

    A Midsummer Day’s Set With Salvatore Ferragamo

    Salvatore Ferragamo Pre-Fall 2021

    Salvatore Ferragamo Shares Climb After Governance News, Rumors of C-suite Changes

     

  • JW Anderson RTW Fall 2021 – WWD

    Blankets have been blanketing the virtual catwalks this season as designers tap into a craving for comfort in these strange, and often brutal times. So many designers have done them (along with hefty knits and enveloping coats) and the latest is Jonathan Anderson who collaborated with two artist friends, Dame Magdalene Odundo and Shawanda Corbett, on a series of limited-edition blankets based on three works from each artist.

    They’ll be sold alongside his fall-winter 2021 collection, which was all about form, silhouette and the body as a vessel, something to be adorned or wrapped up, which is a familiar theme in Anderson’s work.

    Anderson’s exaggerated volumes – the bulbous knit dresses; folded, rippling trench coats; and chunky, sparkly glam rock boots – all mimicked the inviting curves, colors and organic shapes of the artists’ ceramics. How to fit them into suitcase might be problematic, but with few people traveling now, who cares? Geometric cutout sweaters; thick ribbed knits; and oversized boiler suits took up less space, and offered up the sort of chic-edged comfort a homebound woman – no matter what shape or size she happens to be – needs right now.

    Anderson said he wanted to do something “cleaner and more curatorial, with a focus on the silhouette, in this incredibly difficult, and complex season” of full lockdown in the U.K. Once again, he presented the collection in the form of posters, which he sent to press, buyers and clients. The images, which show the artists, their ceramics, and models wearing the blankets and the fall collection, were shot by Juergen Teller.

    The designer has also been taking these months to work out how fashion should be showcased during – and after – the pandemic, and says there is no going back. “You cannot re-create what used to happen; you are never going to get a solution from imitating the past, and I’m enjoying exploring what the future could be.”

    Anderson also pointed out – rightly – that it’s difficult for him and other designers to convey “a tactile message.” Few people can feel the fabrics, and nearly everything is being done on the screen, so the silhouettes have to speak for themselves. They certainly spoke loudly and proudly about diversity, inclusivity – and the undeniable luxury of hiding under a warm blanket.

  • Andrea Pompilio RTW Fall 2021 – WWD

    Andrea Pompilio’s early years in New York inspired his fall collection: a statement about diversity and a total freedom of expression.

    The look: The coed collection had a genderless appeal in tune with the times, with tailored looks that were anything but formal, and a strong outerwear quotient.

    Quote of note: “It’s a déjà vu of my past life in New York in the early ‘90s, when I was working at Calvin Klein, a very important moment for me creatively speaking, but there is no nostalgia. It’s not about a desire to return to clubbing, but rather it’s about the total freedom we felt in those moments, divesting of our daily responsibilities. I fight for freedom and diversity and this is why I called the collection ‘All Inclusive’ – and not in the sense of a free drink. I remember those moments where a melting pot of individuals would meet and be all equal, with no difference in social or financial status.”

    Standout pieces: The outerwear was on point as Pompilio revisited the hound’s tooth pattern on a yellow background in coats and jackets with oversize, contrasting black pockets in a technical material. Knitwear collars added newness to double cashmere coats and a military theme ran through a number of heavy felt coats and suits with golden buttons. Rugby polo shirts were decorated with embroideries on the back. Silk slips and petticoats peeked under knits and loose and relaxed pinstriped suits.

    Takeaway: The diverse casting reflected Pompilio’s inclusive vision and the video, staged at night in a club and directed by his longtime friend Giulia Achenza, captured the designer’s free-spirited creativity.

  • Del Core Debuts Fall 2021 Collection at Milan Fashion Week – WWD

    A new star is born? The much anticipated debut runway show of Daniel Del Core didn’t leave guests disappointed. The designer, who at Gucci worked with Alessandro Michele on the creation of dramatic, intricate looks for A-list celebrities, including Lana Del Ray and Björk, showcased a multifaceted, well-executed collection. While it opened with some serious sartorial rigor, enriched with a sensual touch, the show offered a crescendo of fashion excitement, culminating in extravagant couture dresses, a rarity at Milan Fashion Week.

    The look: As Del Core learned from his latest boss, Michele, portraying personalities rather than defining a specific look is a winning formula in today’s world. The designer channeled a certain empowering 1990s minimalism with the opening tailoring looks and apron minidresses closed with bows on the sides. The eclectic collection moved toward eccentricity with gowns cut in a variety of silhouettes and embellished with precious decorations.

    Quote of note: “I really have to thank Alessandro Michele for helping me open my mind and [who] stimulated my creative vision, letting me free to have fun and experiment,” Del Core said. The designer also explained that “this collection is deeply influenced by not only my professional background, but also by my personal passions, including nature that is a huge source of inspiration for me.”

    Standout pieces: Sartorial suits worn with chic lace bras; power coats cut in sculptural silhouettes; jacquard spaghetti dresses worn with coordinated maxi duster coats; kimono-inspired maxi frocks with fringes, as well as an array of couture designs, showing crystals, floral appliqués and organic-inspired draping.

    Takeaway: At only 32, Del Core presented an imaginative, risky, sometimes provocative collection that telegraphed a message of positivity for the future of Italian fashion.

  • Fashion East RTW Fall 2021 – WWD

    The lineup for this season’s Fashion East showcase included Maximilian Davis, Nensi Dojaka, Goom, newcomers Jawara Alleyne and accessories label HRH. The emerging designer support platform also released a joyful behind-the-scenes video documenting their socially distancing shooting process.

    Having launched his brand during the pandemic last season, Davis said the fall 2021 collection is “a continuation of Black elegance and explores my grandmother’s emigration from Trinidad to England in the 1960s,” with a focus on psychedelic prints and unisex tailoring.

    Dojaka is inspired by an exhibition with the works of Hilma af Klint at London’s Serpentine gallery years ago. “Those beautiful super fine feminine lines running through the huge canvases were a trigger for the first few drapes I did on the mannequin,” she said. Highlights include tulle corsets paired with tailored trousers and one of the light, flared dresses with the double bra details, which is is the first dress the designer draped for the collection.

    South Korean designer Goom Heo’s label this season centers around artist Philip Jackson’s horror-themed sculptures. “His work is enormous and made out of bronze. To me, his sculptures felt really cold & sharp and I wanted to reflect that mood in the collection. Also, the graphics and contrast color combination or texture of fabric were inspired by the 1920’s movie ‘The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari,’ in terms of shade and shadows moving around the body,” Goom said. A key look from the lineup is a black full-length hooded wool coat and the monochrome mohair pieces.

    Raised in Jamaica and the Cayman Islands, Alleyne is a 2020 graduate of Central Saint Martins MA Fashion. She presented her collection via a video of the fictional journey of a captain on her ship “The Renegade” as they go on to save the “Sun City.” Characters include the crew, who wear repurposed leather trousers with draped top wrapped around waist and white top, and the council, whose approach is a lot more sleek and chic. “The video crescendos with this meditation between aggression and joy. I love playing with juxtaposed emotions to ask the viewer to come to their own conclusion,” she said.

    HRH’s new accessories line is inspired by the designer’s love for “gymnastics and figure skating, sports teams and how their adornments unify them.” Key pieces include puffa silk and sheepskin and power mesh scrunchie thongs.